Naples runs on its own clock. If you know the rhythm of the day, the long break in the afternoon, the late dinners, the family Sunday, the city makes a lot more sense, and you will plan your own days better. Here is how a typical week goes. Exact hours vary by shop and neighborhood, so treat these as a guide.
The typical weekday
- Morning (7:00 to 9:00): breakfast is quick and light: an espresso and a cornetto or a graffa standing at the bar. See our coffee guide.
- Work and shops (9:00 to 1:00): offices open around 9:00, and small shops usually open between 9:00 and 10:00.
- Lunch (1:00 to 3:00): pranzo is traditionally the main meal. Restaurants fill up from about 1:00, and many kitchens close around 3:00.
- Riposo (roughly 1:30 to 4:30): the afternoon break. Many small shops, and some churches and museums, close or slow down. Larger stores, malls and the main tourist sights usually stay open. Plan errands for the morning or the late afternoon.
- Afternoon (4:30 to 7:30): shops reopen and the streets fill up again, with people strolling and shopping.
- Aperitivo (6:00 to 8:00): a drink and a snack before dinner. See our aperitivo guide.
- Dinner (8:00 to 10:00 pm and later): cena starts late. Arriving at 6:30 will find most restaurants empty or closed, and an 8:30 or 9:00 reservation is perfectly normal.
When to expect rush hour
Traffic builds from about 8:00 to 9:30 in the morning and again from about 5:30 to 7:30 in the evening, with a smaller bump around lunch when schools let out. Naples is always busy, but at those times buses crawl, taxis get stuck and the metro is full. If you can, move around mid-morning or early afternoon, and use the metro and funiculars. See our transportation guide.
The typical weekend
Neapolitans wake up late on the weekend. Saturday is for shopping, a stroll along Via Toledo or the seafront, and long lunches with friends. Sunday belongs to the family: a big, slow lunch (often with ragù) that can last into the late afternoon. Many local shops and offices are closed on Sundays, and the streets are calmer, especially in the morning, though tourist areas, restaurants and bars stay lively. Sunday is also a great day for the seafront promenade, and the first Sunday of the month has free state museums (see our things to do guide).
Important holidays
- Epiphany (January 6): ends the Christmas season. The Befana, a kindly witch, brings sweets to children.
- Easter and Pasquetta (Easter Monday): Pasquetta is for picnics and day trips, so the coast and parks fill up.
- April 25, May 1 and June 2: Liberation Day, Labor Day and Republic Day, all national days off.
- Ferragosto (August 15): the heart of the Italian summer break. The city empties as people head for the beaches and the islands, and many restaurants and shops close for a week or two around mid-August. Check before you go, and book ahead if you want to travel.
- San Gennaro (September 19): the feast of the city's patron saint, celebrated with a procession and the famous liquefaction of his blood at the Duomo.
- November 1 and December 8: All Saints and the Immaculate Conception.
- Christmas season: the nativity scenes of Via San Gregorio Armeno, a big fish dinner on Christmas Eve, and fireworks that make New Year's Eve famously loud.
On holidays, expect many shops, banks and some restaurants to close, and plan your transport, because services run on reduced schedules.
What Neapolitans do in their free time
Beaches
When the weather warms up, Neapolitans head to the water. Some swim and sunbathe right in the city along the seafront and the rocks and lidos of Posillipo. Others go west to Pozzuoli and Bacoli, or take the ferry to Procida, Ischia, Capri or the Amalfi Coast. Beach clubs (lidos) usually run from about May to September, and August is packed.
Shopping
Via Toledo, Via Chiaia and Via dei Mille are the main shopping streets, with the boutiques and department stores. In Vomero, Via Scarlatti and Via Luca Giordano are the locals' favorites. For something unique, browse the craft shops around San Gregorio Armeno. Italy has two major sales seasons (saldi), in winter after the holidays and in summer, when prices drop sharply.
Sports
Football (calcio) is practically a religion in Naples. SSC Napoli plays at the Stadio Diego Armando Maradona in Fuorigrotta, and the city's love for Maradona shows up in murals all over the Spanish Quarters. If you can get a ticket to a match, go. Locals also play five-a-side football, padel and tennis, and enjoy sailing and rowing in the bay.
Theater and music
Naples has a deep theater and music tradition, from the Teatro di San Carlo opera house to the Teatro Bellini, Teatro Mercadante, Teatro Diana and Teatro Augusteo, plus an old tradition of Neapolitan song. You will hear live music in bars and piazzas, and the city hosts concerts and festivals all year. Check the live "What's On" section on our home page to see what is on this week.
History and art
With roughly 2,800 years of history, Naples is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and Neapolitans really do live among it: churches, catacombs, castles and world-class museums are part of everyday life. See our things to do guide for where to start.
Tips for visitors
- Eat lunch between 1:00 and 3:00 and dinner after 8:00, and you will be eating when the locals do.
- Do your shopping and errands in the morning or after 4:30.
- Avoid mid-August unless you want the beach, because much of the city shuts down.
- Be patient. "Piano, piano" (slowly, slowly) is a way of life here.
Want a local to show you how it all works? Get in touch and we will help you plan your trip or your move.